{"title":"Alternator Splitting Systems","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"volt-drop-alternator-splitting-system-pro-split-r","title":"0.0V Drop Alternator Splitter Pro Split R","description":"\u003ctable width=\"90%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/ProSplit_5dad4325-eea4-4aa9-9645-a2074ad41e41.pdf?785\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/ProSplit_5dad4325-eea4-4aa9-9645-a2074ad41e41.pdf?785\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/PSR_5473efca-4b51-4080-bd5b-821a3e069fac_medium.jpg?784\"\u003eInstruction Manual PDF\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003ch4\u003e\u003ca href=\"https:\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/PSR.pdf?786\" target=\"_blank\"\u003e\u003cimg src=\"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/PSR_medium.jpg?784\"\u003eProduct Information PDF\u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/h4\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cbr\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"843\" height=\"252\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cbr\u003eDC Voltage\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Amps\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSize L x W x D mm\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWeight Kg\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e120\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 x 80 x 120\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.6\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR122\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e180\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 x 80 x 140\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.7\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR182\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 x 80 x 155\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR252\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e120\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 x 80 x 130\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR123\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e180\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR183\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e12\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 x 80 x 180\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR253\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTwin 12\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2 x 130\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 x 80 x 295\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSRT134\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 120\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR62\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 140\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.6\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR102\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 165\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.7\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR152\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e240\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR242\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.7\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR63\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 175\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSR103\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 220\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePSR153\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTwin 24\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2 X 80\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150 X 80 X 295\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePSRT84\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis product uses a micro processor to monitor the multiple battery bank outputs which are to be charged by an alternator; it ensures the batteries are all charged in conjunction with each other and prevents any back feed through the device in the event of high loads on one battery bank. The system also has the ability to disconnect the alternator and individual battery bank outputs in the case of problems caused by the alternator or other power items in the system. It does all this and still offers only a max voltage drop of less that 0.01V, much less than any so called 0V drop mosfet \/ diode system. Many so called 0V drop systems simply do not come close, the Mastervolt battery mate is as high as 0.6V at full power (where it counts) while the Sterling is at 0.09V, a 500% performance improvement over the Mastervolt battery mate unit and about 1100% over a standard diode.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFaster battery charging Apart from the obvious charging benefits of the 0V drop across the unit which dramatically helps battery charging from the standard alternator, the Pro Split R has another unique feature to boost this ability even more. The main problem with split charge systems is that they are trying to charge 2 battery banks (or more). Usually one is already almost full (the engine battery) while one is empty (the domestic battery bank). The problem is that when you try to charge the 2 batteries with conventional splitting systems the higher voltage from the full engine battery fools the regulator on the alternator into thinking that the combined battery states are in fact better than they actually are. The trick is to isolate the engine battery (when it is safe to do so) so, the only voltage presented to the standard regulator is the empty domestic battery. This ensures a one on one charging experience between the empty battery and the alternator regulator which dramatically improves the regulator’s charging performance into this battery bank. Then, when it’s prudent to do so, we re-engage the engine starter battery at a level where it does not affect the maximum charge ability of the regulator.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eHow does the unit work? This unit on the surface looks like a simple device, however, this is a very complex software control device. Under normal operation the unit has a simple operating mode.  Being engineers we are not only concerned about normal operation conditions, we also like to build into our products as much safety and control as possible to both protect your electrical system and to ensure the available power is directed to where it is required most.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eWhat is the problem? Voltage drop across splitting systems (such as diodes) will cause poor performance when trying to charge batteries.  This can be easily compensated for by using things like advanced alternator regulators or battery sensed alternators, however this, in itself, can cause problems (particularly with prolonged use and sealed batteries such as AGM and gel) with other batteries in the circuit, i.e. an over charge can take place, as explained in the diagrams below.\u003cbr\u003eAll boats have at least two battery bank outputs, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery bank outputs onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discus later). \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eExample 1 shows a typical split charge diode installation with a standard alternator with no advanced regulator nor battery sensing regulator. The test assumes a 60A alternator, the diode is 70A rated and there is an average cable between the alternator and the battery bank. The alternator voltage is assumed to be about 14.2V, however, in real life this could vary from 13.9-14.8 volts depending on the manufacturer and the internal regulator fitted to the unit. Important to note on example 1 is the fact that the alternator produces 14.2V at the alt but, by the time it gets to the domestic battery, there is only 12.8V left, this is an appalling voltage and would result in you having extremely bad charge performance at your battery bank. However, note that the engine battery is at 13.6V (this higher voltage is not an issue in this case but the phenomenon will cause a problem in later examples) this is because at 60A the voltage drop across the diode to the domestic battery is 1V, however, because the starter battery is almost full it is only drawing a few amps from the alternator and so its voltage drop is only going to be about 0.4A (remember the voltage drop across a diode is not linear but is proportional to the current flow, i.e. the more current flow through a diode the greater the voltage drop). \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eConclusion: in example 1, there is no danger to anything but there is an appalling low charge voltage presented to the batteries making the charging system grossly ineffective.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eExample 2 is replacing the standard regulator with a battery sensed regulator, this in effect, says to the alternator, give me 14.2V at the domestic battery bank (or at the end of the battery sensed cable)  regardless of what voltage the alternator has to produce to achieve this goal. This will improve charge at the domestic battery a great deal, i.e. you can see that the voltage will rise on the battery from 12.8V in example 1, to 14.2V  in example 2. However, when the voltage is checked through the system (and taking into account the voltage drops across the diodes) the engine battery voltage is now 15.2V, this would rise even more if the cables were longer i.e. if you had 4 or 5 meters of cables then the voltage drop in the cables could be up to 1V, this would drive up the starter battery by another 1V etc. Conclusion: the starter battery should be open lead acid type as it is going to gas a little. In the short term the batteries would simply gas a little, and a regularly maintained battery would be ok. However, with a sealed, gel or AGM  type any gassing could damage this type of battery. \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eExample 3 is pretty much the same as example 2 except a modern advanced regulator will push the batteries up to 14.8V and in some cases the new calcium batteries could go as high as 15.1V. This simply adds another 0.6V onto example 2 with the same conclusions, only worse.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eThe solution: Example 4 If the voltage drop across the splitting device could be eliminated then there would be no excessive rise in voltage on the starter battery. This way the gassing \/ high charge rate of the secondary would be the same as the domestic battery bank and under control. This would prevent excessive gassing taking place and causing excessive water loss in the starter battery. It also has many added features associated with this new technique.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eOther advantages of the Zero Volt Drop Intelligent Alternator Distribution System\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e1)   Distributes the most power to the battery bank which demands it.\u003cbr\u003e2)   Isolates a battery bank when there is any attempt to back feed the power from the full battery bank to a more demanding battery system.\u003cbr\u003e3)   Isolates full batteries to ensure empty batteries can charge faster from a standard regulator maintaining the engine start battery requirements as paramount. \u003cbr\u003e4)   Isolates the main alternator from all the batteries in the event of a failure of the alternator’s own regulator. This prevents the batteries from boiling. \u003cbr\u003e5)   Isolates any battery bank which tries to back feed a high voltage from a different source. i.e. if there was a defective battery charger on one battery bank trying to back feed into another battery bank then the unit would disconnect that battery bank to save the others.\u003cbr\u003e6)   L.E.D. display shows which channels are in use and which are not.\u003cbr\u003e7)   Overload design, for example, our model rated for a 180A is actually continually rated for 240A with overload in excess of 2000A\u003cbr\u003e8)   Fail-safe, in event of unit failure the engine start battery and alternator remain connected, ensuring the safe running of the boat\/vehicle. It prioritizes the engine start battery charging over all other battery bank outputs.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNOT SUITABLE FOR ANY MODERN EUROPEAN VEHICLE OR ANY VEHICLE  EQUIPPED WITH AN ADVANCED ECU.  FOR SUITABLE PRODUCTS LOOK TO THE RANGE OF REGENERATIVE BRAKING FRIENDLY, SUCH AS THE BATTERY TO BATTERY CHARGER.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Product","offers":[{"title":"12V 120A 2 battery banks PSR122","offer_id":882756343,"sku":"PSR122","price":167.96,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"12V 180A 2 battery banks PSR182","offer_id":882758791,"sku":"PSR182","price":221.62,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"12V 250A 2 Battery Banks PSR252","offer_id":882763275,"sku":"PSR252","price":244.94,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"12V 120A 3 battery banks PSR123","offer_id":882764291,"sku":"PSR123","price":206.06,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"12V 180A 3 battery banks PSR183","offer_id":882765499,"sku":"PSR183","price":268.27,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"12V 250A 3 battery banks PSR253","offer_id":882766919,"sku":"PSR253","price":291.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"2 X 130A 4 battery banks PSRT134 12V","offer_id":882767643,"sku":"PSRT134","price":384.91,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"24V 60A 2 battery banks PSR62","offer_id":882768367,"sku":"PSR62","price":190.51,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"PSR102 - use PSR152 instead","offer_id":882769015,"sku":"PSR102","price":250.56,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"24V 150A 2 battery banks PSR152","offer_id":882769743,"sku":"PSR152","price":244.94,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"24V 240A 2 battery banks PSR242","offer_id":882770427,"sku":"PSR242","price":312.12,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"24V 60A 3 battery banks PSR63","offer_id":882771263,"sku":"PSR63","price":229.39,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"24V 100A 3 battery banks  PSR103","offer_id":882771823,"sku":"PSR103","price":268.27,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"24V 150A 3 battery banks  PSR153","offer_id":882772487,"sku":"PSR153","price":299.38,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"2 X 80A 4 battery banks PSRT84 24V","offer_id":882773743,"sku":"PSRT84","price":396.58,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"HVPD12 (12V Protection Device)","offer_id":42552407916733,"sku":"HVPD12","price":57.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/products\/IMG_6543_white.jpg?v=1412952819"},{"product_id":"split-charge-diodes-70-200a-2-3-outputs","title":"Split Charge Diodes 70 - 200A, 2 - 3 Outputs.","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD70A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD70A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e90\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD90A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e90\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD90A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e130\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD130A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e130\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD130A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e160\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD160A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e160\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD160A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD200A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD200A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Product","offers":[{"title":"70 2 D70A2","offer_id":884773155,"sku":"D70A2","price":43.2,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"70 3 D70A3","offer_id":884773159,"sku":"D70A3","price":57.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"90 2 D90A2","offer_id":884773163,"sku":"D90A2","price":58.8,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"90 3 D90A3","offer_id":884773167,"sku":"D90A3","price":82.8,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"130 2 D130A2","offer_id":884773171,"sku":"D130A2","price":81.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"130 3 D130A3","offer_id":884773175,"sku":"D130A3","price":105.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"160 2 D160A2","offer_id":884773179,"sku":"D160A2","price":120.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"160 3 D160A3","offer_id":884773183,"sku":"D160A3","price":158.4,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"200 2 D200A2","offer_id":884773187,"sku":"D200A2","price":192.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"200 3 D200A3","offer_id":884773195,"sku":"D200A3","price":177.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true},{"title":"70A 2input | 3output D702A3","offer_id":20818211334,"sku":"D702A3","price":120.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/products\/D70A2.JPG?v=1412938548"},{"product_id":"12v-battery-high-voltage-protection-device-60a-rated","title":"12V battery High Voltage Protection Device 60A rated","description":"\u003cp\u003eThe HVDC12 is a 12V battery protection device that protects your 12V battery(s) and your 12V system from instant and \/ or sustained high DC voltage spikes that can occur in your DC system. These voltage spikes can occur due to malfunctioning solar charge controllers \/ regulator and \/ or wind regulators. The HVDC can work with both lead acid and lithium batteries.\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSolar regulators and wind regulators can, and do, fail and have serious consequences to your DC system. Often putting the unregulated solar or wind voltage directly across the 12V battery terminal. This can lead to 16V-\u0026gt;35V+ being directly dumped on to your 12V battery and your 12V system. The impact on inverters, DC DC chargers (BBs), 12V anciliary equipment (fridges, pumps etc..) will be deleterious. This HVDC12 is designed to protect against these episdoes. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HVDC12 has 2 studs. 1 of the terminals should be connected to your 12V battery \/ 12V system i.e. the 12V system you wish to protect. The other terminal is connected to your potentially risky solar regulator \/ wind generator \/ other potentially high voltage device.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe HVDC12 is good for 60A at 100VDC - the relay shall trip to protect at 16V+ and the red LED illuminates. The relay then requires manual re-engagement. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRule of thumb:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e- Inverters, normal 12V battery chargers, 12V battery to battery chargers, 12V anciliaries (pumps \/ fridges) etc.. should be on the '\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e12V battery side\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e'\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSolar regulator and wind regulator outputs should be on the high risk '\u003cem\u003e\u003cstrong\u003esolar \/ wind regulator\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e' stud\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cbr\u003eRefer to the gallery image for a wiring example. \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e Weight - 300g \u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eHeight = 90mm | Lenght = 85mm | Width = 90mm\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eM6 - 6mm bolts\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003epowered from 12V battery \/ 12V system you are protecting - 1mA consumption\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhen HVDC12 trips due to a high voltage episode - the RED LED turns on. To reset the relay, simply press the button. The relay shall only re-engage if the voltage is lower than 16V. Please remember, if this relay has tripped please investigate the reasoning for the trip.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThis is not a one time use only product. It can be used time and time again. However, if it is frequently tripping on \/ off - there is like a problem with one of your regulators.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDesigned, developed and manufactured in England at Sterling Power Products.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":42552271896765,"sku":"HVDC12","price":57.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/products\/image1.jpg?v=1671015374"},{"product_id":"70-2-d70a2","title":"D70A2","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD70A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"70 A, 2 OUT","offer_id":55893156954486,"sku":"D70A2","price":43.2,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D90A3_1.jpg?v=1751983903"},{"product_id":"70-3-d70a3","title":"D70A3","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD70A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"70 A, 3 OUT","offer_id":55893159248246,"sku":"D70A3","price":57.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D90A3_1.jpg?v=1751983903"},{"product_id":"90-2-d90a2","title":"D90A2","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e90\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD90A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"90 A, 2 OUT","offer_id":55893160657270,"sku":"D90A2","price":58.8,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D90A3_1.jpg?v=1751983903"},{"product_id":"90-3-d90a3","title":"D90A3","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e90\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD90A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"90 A, 3 OUT","offer_id":55893162131830,"sku":"D90A3","price":82.8,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D90A3_1.jpg?v=1751983903"},{"product_id":"130-2-d130a2","title":"D130A2","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e130\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD130A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"130A, 2 OUT","offer_id":55893165408630,"sku":"D130A2","price":81.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D130A2_1.jpg?v=1751984813"},{"product_id":"130-3-d130a3","title":"D130A3","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e130\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD130A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"130 A, 3 OUT","offer_id":55893174845814,"sku":"D130A3","price":105.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D130A2_1.jpg?v=1751984813"},{"product_id":"160-2-d160a2","title":"D160A2","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e160\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD160A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"160 A, 2 OUT","offer_id":55893188051318,"sku":"D160A2","price":120.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D160A2_2.jpg?v=1751984884"},{"product_id":"160-3-d160a3","title":"D160A3","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e160\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD160A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"160 A, 3 OUT","offer_id":55893192900982,"sku":"D160A3","price":158.4,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D160A2_2.jpg?v=1751984884"},{"product_id":"200-2-d200a2","title":"D200A2","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD200A2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"200 A, 2 OUT","offer_id":55893198766454,"sku":"D200A2","price":192.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D200A3.jpg?v=1751985108"},{"product_id":"200-3-d200a3","title":"D200A3","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD200A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Current limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"200 A, 3 OUT","offer_id":55893199683958,"sku":"D200A3","price":177.6,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/D200A3_2.jpg?v=1757428713"},{"product_id":"70a-2input-3output-d702a3","title":"D702A3","description":"\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eLow Voltage drop split charge diodes.\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAlternator Inputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBattery Banks \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Alt Current\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePart Number\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eD70A3\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll boats have at least two battery banks, some have three. These tend to be the engine start battery, the domestic battery bank (please note that if you join three or four batteries together in your domestic battery bank it is still one battery), and the bow thruster battery. Having introduced 2-3 battery banks onto your boat, the problem then is how do you charge them from one alternator source (or two alternators which I will discuss later). \u003cbr\u003eThere are four various options employed by boat builders, below are the options with a short explanation giving both the positive and negative aspects.\u003cbr\u003e        1) Rotary switch. This method is very dated and not very common on boats. It is recognisable as a large circular switch with four marked positions on the switch. It is marked, off, 1, 2 and both. The good side of this system is that it is easy to install. The bad side is that it needs constant human intervention to ensure it works. Failure to operate it correctly will result in all batteries being discharged or not being charged correctly and possible damage to the alternator. They also tend to suffer failure if large prolonged current is passed through them. The spring in the switch can over-heat and loses its tension; this leads to an exponential break down of the switch that manifests in heat. When these switches fail they tend to melt the plastic case (if you are lucky). Simply check the temperature of the switch every so often by touching the back - it should be cold.\u003cbr\u003e            2) Split charge relay. This system is both dated and extremely dangerous, unless understood and the correct relay used for the correct job, ie current limiting relays may be required for safety reasons. The good side is, that it is easy to fit and requires no alterations to the standard engine system, but, it merely connects the domestic battery bank to the engine battery via a relay, which is energised when the engine starts.\u003cbr\u003e The bad side (and the very dangerous side) is that a relay is prone to over loading. Say, for example, you have a 70A relay on your system and a 55A alternator, all seems great, but if you fit a 1500W inverter which can draw 150A and one morning the domestic battery is flat. So, you start the engine to charge the domestic batteries, the 70A split charger relay will come online to enable the alternator to charge the domestic battery bank. Then you load your inverter to 150A, the 150A will not be drawn from the domestic battery because it is flat but can be drawn from the engine battery (which is full). That means you will draw 150A up the split charge cable and through the 70A relay. If you are lucky you will destroy the relay, if you are not so lucky then you will set fire to the cross over cables, hence the dangerous aspect, A Sterling Currint limiting relay prevents this problem. (see later) The system must be suitable for the purpose for which it is installed and this is clearly not. \u003cbr\u003e           3) Split charge diodes: By using a set of diodes on a heat sink, one can ensure no back feed through the diode, thus ensuring that high currents from other battery banks do not flow up the charge lines and cause a fire. This is the most common method by far employed round the world and is the standard in the USA, for 3 reasons, safety, safety and safety, by the way did I say safety? However, all is far from perfect. The big down side with a split diode system is the voltage drop across the diode (in the order of 0.8-1.2V). This dramatically reduces the charge rate of the alternator on average by about 70%, however, this can easily be over come using products such as the Advanced Alternator regulator in conjunction with the Split Diode.  \u003cbr\u003e    4) 0 volt-splitting systems: These are electronic devices using a control circuit and driving mosfets. The end result is a very low voltage drop across the splitting system (in the order of 0.04 -0.6V) but no reverse current flow is permitted due to the operation of the mosfets. However, on standard marine engines it is much more effective to employ the lower cost diode where an advanced regulator is fitted, (see performance). \u003cbr\u003e    5) 0.0 volt splitting system, The new Pro Split R from Sterling has a voltage drop about 1\/10 that of a split charge diode and 1\/5 that of a 0 volt drop mosfet system. See Pro Split graph below. \u003cbr\u003eConclusion: Test 1: From fig1 we can see the voltage drop across different splitting systems. This directly relates to the ability to charge the batteries, the larger the voltage drop across the device, the less effective the batteries charge.\u003cbr\u003eTest 2 shows the clear advantage of using advanced regulators in conjunction with a conventional split charge diode. The advanced regulator automatically compensates for the voltage drop across the diode, plus the high charge 4-step program further increases the charge rate. The illustrated tests were on a 300 amp hour battery bank, but can easily be extrapolated to 400 amps plus.\u003cbr\u003eThe best low cost system clearly is a standard low cost split charge diode (for safety and cost) or the new Pro Split R and an advanced regulator on the alternator to compensate for the diode faults and charge at the constant current charging curves. This, not only charges 2-3 times faster (on a good installation, but much higher on a bad one) but puts about 100% more useful power into the batteries.\u003cbr\u003eThe best system but a bit more expensive is the new Pro Split.\u003cbr\u003eFor a twin alternator system, the ideal system is: on the largest alternator, fit direct to the domestic battery bank and attach an Advanced Regulator to that alternator. On the smallest alternator split this with a split charge diode between the engine battery and the domestic (and any other battery bank) and add another advanced regulator to it. This gives maximum charge rate to the domestic batteries.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSplit Charge Blocking Diodes 70-200A, 2-3 outputs\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSterling Power has developed a range of low cost split charge diodes. These diodes have enhanced performance over conventional diodes and at a lower cost. The difference is in the devices. All other split charge diode manufacturers use conventional alternator diodes, which at low current flow have about a 0.93 voltage drop. When the full rated current of these diodes is approached, the voltage drop increases to about 0.95 volts. This results in excessive heat and power loss across the diode. For example:  A conventional one alternator in and two battery bank out, tested against a Sterling unit had the following results:\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ctable width=\"100%\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eConventional Splitters\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e \u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSterling Splitter\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eArms Passed (A)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e30\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e50\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e60\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVoltage Drop (V)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.93\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.95\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.97\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.1\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.78\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.75\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0.74\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePower Drop (W)\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e27.9\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e47.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e58.2\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e77\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e23.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e37.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e44.4\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e51.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Sterling Power Products","offers":[{"title":"70 A, 2 IN 3 OUT","offer_id":55893202207094,"sku":"D702A3","price":120.0,"currency_code":"GBP","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/files\/Diode_70A_2_in_3_Out.jpg?v=1751985284"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0658\/7343\/collections\/PSR123_white.jpg?v=1412691680","url":"https:\/\/sterling-power.com\/collections\/dc-splitting-systems\/split-charge-diode.oembed?page=2","provider":"Sterling Power Products","version":"1.0","type":"link"}